Mild cleaning agents

In this blog, we will introduce you to the currently known mild surfactants (SSA) or cleaning agents, what they are made from, and the latest trends. We will also mention some problematic SSA.

Before we get into the topic, you can read the blog about Atopic Skin Cleansing for the basics. You can find the blog at the following link: https://skinfairytale.si/shop/2019/11/21/ciscenje-atopicne-koze/

There are 4 types of cleaning agents; anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric. They differ from each other in their charge. Namely, anionic have a negative charge, cationic have a positive charge, amphoteric have both a negative and a positive charge, depending on the pH value they can have anionic or cationic properties, while nonionic have no charge. Cationic are almost never used, so we will omit them.

How do we obtain them?

1. From starch, more precisely from glucose, which in turn produces derivatives called alkyl polyglucosides
2. From oils and fats, from which fatty alcohols or fatty acids are obtained to form fatty esters and others.
3. From proteins.
4. Polyglycols and acrylic copolymers are mainly obtained from petroleum derivatives.

Alkyl glycosides – gentle cleansers

Decyl glucoside is the most common in the aforementioned group, but cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside are also quite commonly used, especially in rinse-off products.

They are usually used as mild cleansers, but can stabilize emulsions when added to sunscreens, moisturizing cosmetic products, and skin and hair cleansing products.

They are not susceptible to oxidation at room temperature and are used in lower concentrations, which means there is less potential for irritation. However, some cases of contact dermatitis have been reported with alkyl glucosides.

In the following graphs you can see the irritation potential of some cleaners.

Decyl glucoside in UV filter

However, decyl glucoside is also found in 7.5% in Tinosorb M (UV filter), which we mentioned in one of the previous posts. Most often, not all ingredients are listed on the INCI, but only the UV filter, and so decyl glucoside is not listed, but it is still present in the formulation. Why do we mention this? Some people have a reaction to Tinosorb M, but experts believe that decyl glucoside is a possible allergen, which is not listed on the label.

Trends in cleaning products

1. PAS without preservatives . Manufacturers must reduce the water content in the formulation and thus increase the concentration of the active ingredient, in this case PAS.
2. Replacing alkalamides . The problem with these substances is that they can form nitrosamines and are avoided in newer formulations.
3. Less irritating substances . Newer formulations contain milder PAS that do not irritate the eyes, mucous membranes, or skin.
4. They have several functions . In addition to their cleaning and foaming functions, they also increase the viscosity of the product, which allows us to reduce the amount of other substances that would increase viscosity.
5. Biodegradability . As we are increasingly aware of the importance of preserving nature, biodegradable alternatives are being sought in this area as well.
6. Plant-based . For example, wheat and almond protein derivatives. This trend has been driven by certifications for natural and organic cosmetics, as well as the new ISO 15128, which specifies the content of natural and/or organic substances in a product.

Loranger C, Alfalah M, Ferrier Le Bouedec MC, Sasseville D. Alkyl Glucosides in Contact Dermatitis. Dermatitis. 2017;28(1):5–13

Subramanyan K. Role of mild cleansing in the management of patient skin. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17(s1):26–34

Alkyl Polyglycosides, Properties and Applications. Cosmetic & Toiletries, vol. 108 3/93