Glycyrrhetinic acid

Plant extracts, powders, and juices are very popular ingredients in cosmetic products because they have a variety of properties. Glycyrrhetinic acid, which we will describe in more detail today, is isolated from licorice root.

Licorice ( Glycyrrhiza glabra ) is a plant known since ancient times. Various extracts and pure compounds have been shown to have various biological properties, including antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antidiabetic properties . In Chinese medicine, licorice is known as an ingredient that "harmonizes" the entire composition in a formulation.

Properties of glycyrrhetinic acid or enoxolone

It is usually present in cosmetic products in concentrations of up to 2%. Allergic contact dermatitis with glycyrrhetinic acid is not observed, or is reported only very rarely. In principle, our skin tolerates the acid well. It is attributed to anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. They are also investigating how to increase the passage through the stratum corneum in the form of liposomes.

Anti-inflammatory action

Glycyrrhetinic acid inhibits the production and expression of molecules that provoke inflammation. This means that Inflammation in the final phase does not occur or is greatly reduced .

Because it has an anti-inflammatory effect, it can be used for: treatment of atopic dermatitis, pruritus or acne vulgaris . It can be used after sunburn and erythema , as it soothes the skin, allowing it to recover faster or restore normal function.

At a concentration of 0.5%, it reduces erythema and pigmentation caused by UVB light. In addition to its anti-inflammatory properties, the acid also has lightening properties, which is why it is also added to cosmetic products intended to lighten the skin or even out the complexion.

Suppression of itching – antipruritic action

Research has confirmed that glycyrrhetinic acid It effectively prevents itching in chronic dermatitis , although it does not inhibit the main molecule (histamine) that causes itching. The acid is nevertheless attributed an antipruritic effect, as it inhibits the production of another molecule (leukotriene B4), which is also involved in the inflammatory process.

The study tested two formulations of licorice extract (1% and 2%) that also contained glycyrrhetinic acid. They tested them for the treatment of atopic dermatitis and found that the 2% concentration was more effective in reducing redness, swelling, and itching.

Antiviral activity

Glycyrrhetinic acid has an antimicrobial effect on certain types of bacteria ( Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus epidermidis , etc.). This property can be used in the treatment of skin diseases caused by microorganisms, as it inhibits their activity, thereby preventing the disease from developing further.

In cosmetic formulations, the presence of glycyrrhetinic acid supports the function of active ingredients and also acts as an auxiliary preservative, but it cannot be used alone, as it only acts on some microorganisms, not all.

Antioxidant activity

Glycyrrhetinic acid protects human keratinocytes from damage caused by UVB radiation , neutralizes free radicals and can prevent damage to our genetic code. Due to their antioxidant action, they also inhibit the oxidation of lipids, which thus prevent them from spoiling. Skin aging is also slowed down .

Compared to corticosteroids

Glycyrrhetinic acid has a similar composition to corticoid hormones. Steroids suppress the immune system, causing various side effects. (inhibition of keratinocyte proliferation, inhibition of collagen and elastin synthesis, etc.). The advantage of glycyrrhetinic acid compared to corticosteroids is that it also has an anti-inflammatory effect, but does not promote the growth of viruses or fungi and It does not have the side effects that corticosteroids have.

Glycyrrhetinic acid and AtopicLotion

In Atopic Lotion we added the mentioned ingredient because the lotion is intended for skin prone to atopic dermatitis, skin that is red and/or itchy, and it is precisely for such skin that glycyrrhetinic acid improves the condition . At the same time, it is an ingredient that is generally well tolerated by our skin and will not cause additional headaches, but will help to generally calm and restore the skin.

Literature:

Pastorino G, Cornara L, Soares S, Rodrigues F, Oliveira MB. Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra): A phytochemical and pharmacological review. Phytotherapy Research. 2018: 1-17

Kowalska A, Kalinowska‐Lis U. 18β‐Glycyrrhetinic acid: its core biological properties and dermatological applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2019: 1-23

Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology. 2007; 26(1):79–112.