Sensitive scalp care

Sensitive skin affects 60% of women and 40% of men. However, sensitive skin does not only affect the skin of the face, but also the scalp. A sensitive scalp exhibits abnormal and unpleasant sensory reactions of the scalp, including itching, tightness and pain. Visible signs of inflammation are usually absent due to the large number of hair follicles.

What is a sensitive scalp?

Sensitive scalp is a skin condition on the scalp that presents with erythema and/or subjective symptoms such as itching, burning, tingling, stinging, pain, and pruritus. Sensitive scalp can be triggered by both external and internal factors. Internal factors for the development of a sensitive scalp include genetic predisposition, stress, hormonal factors, and various skin diseases. External factors for the development of a sensitive scalp include wind, cold, dry air, pollution, frequent contact with water, and improper scalp care. Symptoms can also be triggered by factors that would not cause a reaction in people with normal skin.

What are the physiological conditions of the scalp related to?

The scalp is home to the highest density of hair follicles, which produce a large amount of sebum (causal level 150 μg/cm2). Human sebum is a complex mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, cholesterol, cholesterol esters and squalene, which is regularly secreted onto the scalp. The absence or excessive amount of sebum will lead to the development of various diseases such as alopecia or seborrheic dermatitis.

Furthermore, numerous studies have shown that the physiological conditions of the scalp are strongly linked to the microbiota. Commensal microbes can break down triglycerides and esters into diglycerides, monoglycerides, and free fatty acids, which can irritate the skin.

Impaired scalp barrier function may be responsible for the development of sensitive scalp

The scalp can also be sensitive due to various physiological factors, such as weakened barrier function, increased neurological sensitivity and increased immune responsiveness. Barrier function is important on the scalp, as it is throughout the body, and depends primarily on the hydration of the scalp and the hydro-lipophilic protective layer. The use of shampoos containing aggressive surfactants can damage the hydro-lipophilic layer and consequently weaken the barrier function of the scalp.

Weakened barrier function leads to greater exposure of nerve endings and increased possibility of allergens entering. As a result, the scalp is more prone to reacting to external factors, and objective symptoms such as redness and erythema also appear.

The cause of a sensitive scalp is mainly improper care.

The most common cause of a sensitive scalp is irritant contact dermatitis. Irritant contact dermatitis is an inflammatory response of the skin to external irritants and appears after the first contact with a substance. It usually appears as erythema. One of the substances that most often causes irritant contact dermatitis on the scalp is sodium lauryl sulfate, which is a common ingredient in hair shampoos.

How do surfactants work?

Sensitive scalps therefore overreact to certain external factors, so it is necessary to use products that do not provoke a reaction. Shampoos contain substances called surfactants, which allow impurities to be removed from the body by capturing oil-soluble impurities inside. There are several types of surfactants, namely anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic. The most common in skin and scalp cleansing products are anionic surfactants, which include sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. These substances are often used because they have good cleaning power and excellent foaming.

The irritation potential of anionic surfactants is very high

The irritant potential of surfactants depends on the type of surfactant, the time of application and the pH value of the cleaning product. The greatest irritant potential is shown by anionic surfactants, which, after binding to keratin, cause protein denaturation, which leads to damage to the keratinocyte cell membrane. This in turn leads to negative skin responses.

The normal pH of the skin and scalp ranges between 4.5 and 6 and it is important to maintain it at this level. pH affects the integrity of the skin barrier, skin hydration and exfoliation. The pH of surfactants is usually significantly higher than the pH of the scalp. The pH of anionic surfactants is around 9 and is difficult to adjust. Alkaline pH causes damage to the lipid bilayer and thus causes dryness of the scalp.

New, natural shampoo for sensitive scalp

At Skinfairytale, we have developed a shampoo that is adapted to cleanse sensitive scalps. It contains non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, which, unlike anionic ones, are significantly milder, practically do not show any irritating potential and are not toxic. The non-ionic surfactant added to the shampoo is natural and derived from glycosides. It exhibits good cleaning ability, foams well, but at the same time does not irritate the scalp. The amphoteric surfactant betaine is a by-product of sugar production and is obtained from sugar beet molasses. Betaine has a regenerative effect in skin care, reduces irritation and protects against drying out. It stabilizes foam in surfactant products, and is used in shampoos and hair care products, as it improves hair adhesion and strength.

Shampoo – 200ml

Goodbye frizzy hair and sensitive scalp

Non-ionic surfactants have no charge, while hair has a negative charge. Usually, in addition to anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants are added to regular shampoos, which are positively charged and thus reduce the repulsion between hairs. Hair usually repels after washing with non-ionic surfactants and consequently looks electrified. However, a 100% natural ingredient has been added to the new shampoo, which at its physiological pH (5.5) provides a positive charge and thus neutralizes the negative charge on the hair. As a result, the hair will not repel.

Moisturizing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action to soothe the scalp

The shampoo contains orange blossom hydrolate (Neroli rose water), aloe vera and glycerol. Orange blossom hydrolate has a moisturizing and antioxidant effect. Aloe vera soothes irritated scalp, has an anti-inflammatory effect and is an excellent moisturizer. Glycerol is one of the best moisturizers, as it retains moisture in the skin even at low external relative humidity, thus contributing to greater hydration.

The shampoo also contains ingredients that have antioxidant and soothing effects. It contains bisabolol, an extract from real chamomile, which has anti-inflammatory effects and consequently soothes inflammation in the skin. Panthenol, which is also found in the shampoo, is provitamin B5. It is the alcoholic form of pantothenic acid, into which it is metabolized in the deeper layers of the skin. Panthenol moisturizes the skin, accelerates cell division, has an anti-inflammatory effect and effectively soothes acute burns.

To support the effects of all the above ingredients, copaiba and cedar essential oils are also added. People living in areas where copaiba trees grow have long used copaiba oleoresin for various purposes, such as anti-inflammatory effects, promoting wound healing, reducing skin irritation, and antimicrobial effects. Cedar essential oil has a soothing effect on sensitive skin.

.

(Blog prepared in collaboration with Cosmedoc.si)