Posted by Katarina Fajfar
on March 18, 2025
First some basics…
Soap and syndet
We often use the term "soap" for all types of cleaners, but this term represents a specific chemical structure. Soaps are made by the process of saponification, in which a fat reacts with a base. The result is a fatty acid salt with cleaning properties and glycerol.
There are still some supporters of soap, but other forms of cleansers, such as syndet, sell much better, as they have a lower pH and are consequently less irritating to the skin and do not remove as much intercellular lipids (which are essential for the proper functioning of the skin barrier).
Soaps typically have a pH between 9 and 10, while syndet are formulated with a pH between 5.5 and 7, which is much closer to the neutral pH of the skin.
Soap
Due to its high pH, soap causes the stratum corneum to swell, which allows the soap to penetrate deeper into the skin, which can cause irritation or itching. At the same time, soap makes the skin very moisturized during washing, which seems ideal at first glance. However, the reality is that when we stop washing, the excess water evaporates, resulting in dry skin and tightness. The unpleasant tightness is the result, as soap has reduced the ability of proteins to retain water in the skin.
Syndicates
Syndets are synthetic detergents. They are not obtained by the saponification process, but by chemical processes that produce substances with cleaning properties. The advantage of syndets is that the reaction can also produce very mild cleaning agents, suitable even for sensitive skin. Moisturizers and vegetable oils are usually added to syndets.
Liquid cleaners – the most common form
Cleansers are basically designed to remove sebum, sweat, makeup and other impurities. This is achieved by using surfactants, which are composed of a polar "head" and a non-polar "tail". The polar part binds hydrophilic (water-soluble) substances and water, while the non-polar part binds hydrophobic (oil-soluble) substances. In the final stage, cleansers remove both water-soluble and oil-soluble substances from the face.
In addition to surfactants, liquid cleansers also contain moisturizing ingredients, plant oils, and other extracts that are welcome for our skin.
Cleaning
Good cleansing is the result of a good balance between skin hygiene and damage to the stratum corneum barrier. Yes, you read that right. Namely, cleansing disrupts the skin barrier and is an interaction between water, cleanser and skin.
Why does this happen?
Surfactants are not able to distinguish between oil components and intercellular lipids. Oil components need to be cleaned. Intercellular lipids are an integral part of the skin and are essential for maintaining the skin barrier. We do not want to remove these lipids because we need them. So, if we have an aggressive cleanser, it will clean sebum and other oil-soluble substances, including intercellular lipids. The result is damage to the skin barrier and excessive transepidermal water loss. This leads to altered function of the stratum corneum and faster shedding of corneocytes. We see this as the scaly appearance typical of dermatitis with eczema.
Double cleaning
A technique that we "copied" from the Japanese and South Koreans. It consists of using 2 types of cleansers, or 2-time cleansing.
The most common double cleansing practice is:
- Phase: Oil-based cleanser. It can be a cleansing oil, cleansing balm, scrub…
- Phase: Water-based cleanser. It can be a gel, lotion, foam…
This procedure is the most common, as in the first phase we remove makeup, stubborn formulations with UV filters and impurities, i.e. substances soluble in oil. In the second phase we clean the residues from the first phase and make sure to rinse everything off the face thoroughly. The point of double cleansing is that the first step makes the path of regular cleansing easier. This is most noticeable when we have a cream with a protective factor, a liquid foundation, loose powder..., i.e. multiple layers. Thanks to double cleansing, we don't get the feeling that removing multiple layers is time-consuming and/or difficult.
Double cleansing can also mean using a water-based or oil-based cleanser twice. There are no rules to follow here, but the practice mentioned above has proven to be the most useful.
2 NEW facial cleansing products
At Skinfairytale, we decided to offer skin cleansing products that are also suitable for those who find cleansing a nightmare. We have selected only the gentlest cleansers that minimally interfere with the skin barrier, plant extracts and moisturizers that will soothe and moisturize the skin and make cleansing as pleasant as possible.
The products are:
- Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin and skin prone to atopic dermatitis.
- Vegan.
- Free from silicones and mineral oils.
- Free from alcohol, which can dry out the skin.
- Free from fragrances and essential oils that can potentially irritate eyes and/or skin.
1. Cleansing balm
The ingredients are primarily added to have a soothing effect on the skin, as cleansers can potentially irritate it. The balm does not dry out the skin, but nourishes and softens it.
Due to its formulation and the ingredients it contains, it thoroughly cleanses makeup, sunscreen and impurities.
Oat extract
It helps to improve the functioning of the skin barrier and protects the skin from external factors. It also has antioxidant, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects. Oat extract is also added to the Cleansing Gel.
Bisabolol
It has anti-inflammatory properties and is often found in formulations intended for healing or sensitive skin. It also acts as a powerful antioxidant and reduces redness.
Squalane
It has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and swelling. Squalane is similar in composition to our sebum and is very well "accepted" by our skin. It is also an excellent moisturizer that makes the skin more radiant and healthy-looking.
How to use the product?
Apply a small amount of the product to a dry face and massage gently. The product will melt between your fingers and you will see how it dissolves makeup. Add a little water to form a milky emulsion and rinse everything off with lukewarm water. Because of the milky emulsion, you will not feel greasy after cleansing and you will be able to wash your face without any problems.
If you do not use makeup and/or sunscreen, using the product is not necessary.
2. Cleansing gel
It is suitable for the second phase of a double cleansing routine or as a standalone cleanser. It gently and thoroughly cleanses the skin without drying it out. The ingredients in the product primarily have a nourishing, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effect.
The product does not irritate the eyes.
Panthenol and allantoin
Very good moisturizers that also have anti-inflammatory properties. Panthenol improves skin elasticity, softens it and soothes skin prone to redness and/or eczema. Allantoin helps heal and also soothes skin prone to irritation and eczema.
Niacinamide
A well-known ingredient for mature and acne-prone skin, it is also beneficial for other skin conditions due to its properties. Niacinamide helps improve the moisture level in the epidermis by preventing excessive evaporation of water from the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and soothes irritated skin, making it especially suitable for sensitive skin.
Cucumber extract
An extract that moisturizes and soothes the skin. It also reduces puffiness, soothes itching and redness. It is suitable for all skin types.
Xylitol
A sugar alcohol that has a moisturizing effect and contributes to a stronger skin barrier. It also plays an important role in normalizing keratinization. This means that cells exfoliate normally, within 28 days and not sooner, as is typical for skin changes such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, etc.
How to use the product?
It can be used alone for morning cleansing, or after using Cleansing Balm. Apply the product to wet skin, massage in and rinse with lukewarm water.
What should my cleaning routine look like?
In the morning: cleansing gel and then continue with the rest of your skincare routine.
Evening: Cleansing balm + cleansing gel and then continue with the rest of your skincare routine.
A few more recommendations:
- We do not recommend using facial soaps, as their pH differs too much from the pH of the skin and can have negative consequences.
- Before cleaning, wash your hands and use lukewarm water. After cleaning, pat your skin dry with a clean tissue or towel.
- If we are more forgetful, we place facial cleansers next to the sink and under the shower so they are easier to notice and use.
Literature:
Draelos ZD: The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2017: 1-7
Lambers H, Piessen S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P: Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora. , 2006;28(5): 359–370
Cheong WK: Gentle cleansing and moisturizing for patients with atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2009;10: 13-17