Overview of ingredients in cosmetic products

Overview of ingredients in cosmetic products and which ones should I avoid?

Today, the cosmetics market is growing, and new cosmetic ingredients are coming onto the market every day, trying to replace old and established ingredients. However, there is also a lot of misinformation, either from companies or from flawed scientific articles. Just remember the case of parabens and the panic that arose when the false information that they cause breast cancer spread. That is why we have prepared this post, in which we will generally look at the groups of certain cosmetic ingredients that we often encounter in cosmetic products and, using examples, look at which ingredients are okay and which ones should really be avoided.

Preservatives

Preservatives are ingredients that are added to cosmetic products to prevent secondary microbial contamination. In simple terms, this means that they prevent the growth of bacteria after the product is opened. Preservatives must be added to all products that contain water, as water is a breeding ground for microorganisms. As I mentioned above, a group of preservatives called parabens has a bad reputation because they are said to cause breast cancer. However, from a professional point of view, parabens are one of the safest preservatives. Parabens got a bad reputation because of a report published a few years ago that said that parabens were found in breast cancer tissue. The author of the article mentioned in the study that parabens are estrogens.

The study did not state whether parabens were also present in normal tissue, nor did the article state that parabens cause cancer. However, the statement that parabens exhibit estrogenic activity led to the creation of an online blog that falsely stated that parabens cause breast cancer. This information was then picked up by blogs and the media, leading companies to begin removing parabens from their cosmetic products.

In fact, there is no evidence that parabens cause any problems, including breast cancer. Most preservatives from other groups (phenoxyethanol, thiomersal, benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine, triclosan, salicylic acid) cause unwanted side effects even at low concentrations and can cause many inconveniences, especially for patients with skin diseases.

Surfactants

Surfactants are versatile cosmetic ingredients, as they can perform several roles in a cosmetic product at the same time. They can act as emulsifiers, solubilizers, wetting agents, foaming agents or cleaning agents. When we hear the term surfactants in general conversation, we usually refer to cleaning agents found in soaps, shower gels and shampoos. The problem with surfactants is that most of the compounds in this group have a very high pH and good degreasing ability, which can pose major problems for our skin. We have already learned that the pH of our skin ranges between 4.0 and 5.5. Surfactants mostly have a pH between 9 and 12, which can cause an increase in the pH on the surface of our skin and lead to a number of problems. The use of these compounds is particularly problematic for patients with skin diseases, as they already generally have a higher pH than people with normal barrier function. The use of cleaning agents further raises the pH and degreases the skin, which is very unfavorable, as the skin of patients with skin diseases does not regenerate as quickly as that of normal people.

The most problematic are anionic surfactants, including the most commonly used sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. However, the development of the cosmetic industry has also brought new types of surfactants that are more skin-friendly, have a pH adjusted to the pH of human skin, and do not remove lipids from the skin surface.

Silicones

Silicones are an ingredient that often appears in cosmetic products precisely because they can perform several different roles. They are excellent glides and lubricants, antifoams, emulsifiers, emollients and surfactants. But recently they have had a very bad reputation, as manufacturers are avoiding them en masse. But why? The fact is that there are many myths about silicones that are rooted in them, but they are not true. Studies prove that silicones are very safe for the consumer. They are among the ˝Clean beauty˝ substances. Clean Beauty is a platform where you can find safe products, even if they are made from natural or synthetic materials. The point is that they are safe for the user.

Essential oils

Essential oils are volatile liquids that are soluble in oil. They have a strong smell and taste. They are used in cosmetic products to scent the product, to cover the unpleasant smell of some ingredients, and also because they have positive effects on the skin and the body. Like the previously listed ingredients, essential oils have a bad reputation because they are said to cause hypersensitivity reactions and allergies. However, we must be aware that not all essential oils have allergenic potential and that some have a very positive effect on our skin. Some essential oils have antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antioxidant effects and in this way contribute to the integrity of the cosmetic product.

Dyes

Dyes are added to cosmetic products to improve their appearance, but this is usually the only function they have in a cosmetic product. Some natural dyes do have antioxidant properties. However, it is important to be aware that they can also cause side effects, which is why their use in cosmetic products is limited by law. Especially in people with skin diseases and a consequently damaged barrier function, they can pass through the skin and thus cause irritation or allergic reactions. If possible, it is advisable for people with skin diseases to avoid dyes in cosmetic products.

Alcohols

Alcohols are a common ingredient in cosmetic products, as they have a multitude of functions, such as product stabilization, preservative, solvent, emollient. In cosmetic labeling, the term “alcohol” refers to ethyl alcohol. We have probably all heard that ALL alcohols are bad, but not everything is so black and white. There are two types of alcohols, one is alcohols, which include ethanol, alcohol denat., isopropyl alcohol and SD Alcohol, and the other is fatty alcohols, which include stearyl, cetearyl and cetyl alcohol. The first group of alcohols can cause the removal of lipids from the epidermis and consequently greater water loss from the skin, which in the long run can cause damaged barrier function and dehydration of the skin. Meanwhile, the second group of alcohols, called fatty alcohols, has positive effects on the skin. These are long-chain alcohols that are added to cosmetic products to act as emollients, i.e. to soften the skin and supply lipids.

The blog was created in collaboration with Cosmedoc.si